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August 24, 2011

Hurricane Preparedness

With the 2011 hurricane season underway, and a storm poised to threaten the east coast, I thought it would be helpful to post a link to tips on securing your RIB for a storm. If you have any additional questions after reading through, feel free to contact us and we'd be glad to provide any additional guidance that we can.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 12:19 PM

August 30, 2010

The Tropics are Alive

It's that time of year again- hurricane season is in full swing and the tropics are acting up. Most people living near the coast have been through at least one hurricane in their life. Folks in the south know that during hurricane season paying close attention to the Tropical Update on the Weather Channel is just a way of life. In event of a hurricane, whether you "hunker down" to ride out the storm, or evacuate you want to be sure your RIB is secure so that it is one less weighing on your mind while waiting for the storm to pass. Here are some tips I posted last year to help you prepare your boat for the storm.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 08:20 AM | Comments (0)

June 04, 2010

Spring Cleaning

One of the best things a RIB owner can do each year to keep their boat looking like new is to give the tubes a thorough cleaning. Wondering the best way to do it? Take a look at one my prior blog entries for some tips and recommendations.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 09:55 AM | Comments (0)

May 22, 2009

Importance of Spring Commissioning

With today kicking off Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start to the boating season, Boat U.S. Towing released some statistics that solidify the importance of a thorough spring commissioning. They expect that over 3,400 recreational boaters will need assistance this weekend. Of the total number of calls, the majority are expected to be the result of incomplete spring commissioning and fuel that has gone bad over the winter. Boat U.S. states that they see a lot of people rushing to get their boat in the water, and then encounter problems once they get out there. Here is a basic check list to review courtesy of Boat U.S. In addition to this list don’t forget to give special care and attention to your tube. First be sure the tube is fully inflated. Next wash the tubes with soap and water. For those really dirty spots use some Aurora Speed Clean. Aurora Poly Guard is also a great product to have on... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:59 PM | Comments (0)

February 04, 2009

What's the Right Prop

People always ask us for advice with selecting the "best" propeller for their boat. I wish there was a straight forward easy answer, but selecting the right prop can be more of an art than an exact science. The "best" prop for your boat is really dependent on how you plan to use the boat – do you need high end speed, low end torque for towing, better bight in rough sea conditions? For most of us, having the correct prop will deliver better gas mileage, high end speed, and improved cruising speed (staying on a plane at lower RPM). So – how do you get the right prop and what's the right prop for you? Take a read of the two postings "Round and Round – Props 101" and "Selecting the Proper Prop - Props 102" from 2006 to learn more about Props. I was going to write a new post, but I think these do the trick. Let... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 11:52 AM | Comments (0)

September 29, 2008

RIB Winterizing: The Engine

When it comes to preparing your RIB for the winter, the most important thing you can do is to take care of the engine and insure that it is properly winterized. The following is a generic recommended list of things that should be done to the engine, however, I always recommend referring to your engine's owners manual. The list below is intended only as a guide and some steps might not apply to your particular engine. Steering Inspect steering systems, including tiller steering friction fittings on outboards. Tighten them if they're loose. Lubricate steering cable and steering arm Freshwater flush Run the engine use a flushing attachment, or run the outboard in a tank filled with fresh water. Change Engine Oil With the engine warm change oil and oil filter. Be sure to dispose of the used oil at an authorized recycling center Drain and Refill Gearcase Change the lower unit gearcase lubricant on outboards. Even a little water trapped... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:49 PM | Comments (0)

September 25, 2008

RIB Winterizing: Preparing The Boat For the Off Season

Bottom line, a RIB is no different than a hardsided boat when it comes time to preparing it for the winter or off season. Whether you choose to do it yourself or have your marina or storage facility do it for you, winterizing the boat and motor is probably the most important maintenance you can do to your RIB. For boaters who aren't comfortable doing their own maintenance, all the procedures may be performed by a qualified marine technician at your local boat dealer, just ask them. Taking a little time in the fall to get your boat and motor ready for winter means that you can be one of the first boaters out on the water next spring. The following are some basic general steps to follow to properly winterize you RIB: -Clean boat inside and out and cover when stored, even indoors. Allow for air circulation under the cover to prevent mildew. - Drain water from the bilges... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:46 PM | Comments (0)

September 22, 2008

RIB Winterizing: The Tube

Well, it's mid September and in the Northeast that means it's the busy season for boat yards and boat ramps as people race to haul their boats out prior to the leaves falling and the first snow fall. New RIB owners ask us all the time if there is anything special they need to do to their boat in preparation for winter storage. In short, winterizing a RIB is no different than winterizing a hardsided boat. The biggest thing is to keep the boat covered and dry. Over the next few days, we'll cover some of the standard items you should cover when preparing your RIB for the winter. The Tube: Today we'll go over the tube and what needs to be done to them in order to prepare them for winter. In brief, NOTHING. That's right, really - there's very little that needs to happen to the tube. As I've mentioned in the past, you actually want to do... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:04 PM | Comments (2)

October 04, 2007

Prepping The Tube For Winter

It's that time of year again in the Northeast when the boat ramps and boat yards are swarming with activity in the race to beat the first snow fall. As owners haul their RIBs we're asked all the time what they should do with their tubes for the winter. Put very simply, do nothing . You actually want to do just what you've done all summer – Keep Them Fully Inflated. The common misconception is that you should deflate the tube for the winter, but that's probably one of the worse things you can do as a deflated tube puts strain on attachment patches and rubstrake which can cause them to peel off over time. For RIBs that do not have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT RIBs built in the United States come standard with Pressure Relief Valves) we recommend that you leave the tube 80% inflated. This will allow for expansion on warm days in the fall and spring.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 09:19 AM | Comments (5)

May 16, 2007

Weather Proofing Your Electronics

We’ve all experienced it and most probably complained about it too – our marine grade “waterproof” electronics at one time have fallen victim to the elements. Unfortunately, on an open boat none of them (GPS, VHF, Stereo), regardless of brand, on an open boat are immune to water damage. Though intended for the marine environment, none of these are designed to be left out in the open exposed day and night to rain. To insure that your electronics last, it’s important that you take steps to weather proof them when you’re not on your boat. At a minimum if the manufacturer supplies a cover for the unit – USE IT. However, the most effective way to protect your electronics (other than not installing them in the first place) is to cover the console after using the boat with a canvas cover. A console cover not only protects the instruments and electronics, but it’s a great security device to deter theft;... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:35 PM | Comments (2)

January 24, 2007

Leaky Tubes?

Are My Tubes Leaking? For departments using RIBs in colder climates during the winter, this is a common question and concern. The answer nearly every time is NO. Because the tubes are air filled, they are susceptible to temperature change. Changing temperatures cause the air pressure inside the tube to fluctuate. The tubes become harder as the air expands on hot days and on colder days the air contracts making the tubes softer. This is extremely evident during the winter for fire departments who store their boats inside the station until needed. Many first time RIB users panic when they move the boat from the 68 degree station to the outside where it’s 35 degrees. Within minutes the air inside the tube contracts and the tubes soften. To minimize this effect, I recommend putting the boat outside in the cold for a half hour and then pump the tube up as much as you can with the foot pump. Then... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 04:54 PM | Comments (3)

January 17, 2007

Aluminum or Stainless? (Props 103)

What prop material is best – Aluminum or Stainless? Aluminum props: The most common and deliver good overall performance. Stainless Steel props: Used as an upgrade and deliver better top end performance The economical choice, aluminum props provide more than adequate strength and are easily repaired. The downside is that it’s fairly easy to bend or nick the blades should you hit something. Comparably, stainless steel props are stronger and generally more durable; that being their greatest advantage. The strength of a stainless steel prop will help maintain engine performance because they are resilient to the small nicks and bends that can occur with aluminum props. Additionally, because of this strength, stainless steel blades are thinner which results in better efficiency and performance. A thinner leading edge will create less air bubbles on impact, resulting in less cavitation thereby delivering better performance. Stainless steel props generally offer improved performance, better acceleration and higher top end speeds within the same pitch... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 04:39 PM | Comments (3)

December 27, 2006

Selecting the Proper Prop (Props 102)

Now that we have the basic anatomy of the prop covered, let’s look at how we can go about insuring that the optimal prop for your boat is installed. Getting the right prop on your boat is very much a process of trial an error. The best place to start is to look at what you have on your boat now. When your boat is at wide open or wide open throttle (WOT) what is the maximum RPM? Does this RPM fall between the manufacturer’s recommended range? If it does then you most likely have the best prop for your boat – if not, there’s work to be done. The goal when selecting the optimal prop is to have your maximum RPM for the engine fall between the range given by the manufacturer. The higher the RPMs you have within the range, the higher speeds you will most likely reach. Having the correct prop will deliver maximum speed and optimal... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 12:57 PM | Comments (0)

December 21, 2006

Round and Round - PROPS 101

I’m sure we can all agree that a Prop is a fairly integral part of the boating experience, but if you’re like me you don’t give them a whole lot of thought – they spin and make the boat move – good enough. All joking aside – there’s actually quite a bit to them and they’re more important than you might think. The prop is a critical element and having the properly (no pun intended) sized prop on your boat is key to performance and engine longevity. Folks have asked some great questions recently regarding how to select the right prop for their RIB, so I thought we’d look into it together. Before we can even talk about selecting the right prop, I think it would be helpful to explore the anatomy of the prop, something that I like to call “Props 101”. So here are the basics. Like people, propellers are either left or right handed. Left handed props... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:52 PM | Comments (0)

October 23, 2006

Cleaning Up Them Tubes

Fred is asked regularly how to clean the tubes on RIBs. The great news is that the tubes require very little maintenance but a little love now and then never hurts. Normally fresh water, boat soap and a sponge work great but at the end of the season, the colored (non-military dark grey) tubes may require something more. Aurora SpeedClean, http://www.auroramarine.com, works great. Simply hose off the loose dirt, put a generous dollop to a damp rag, and rub on in a circular motion, wait a few minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean damp rag. Immediately, the tube brightens back to its original color and luster. Using a rag is helpful as it is slightly more aggressive than a sponge but won't scratch the tubes like a scrub brush could. For those that want to go the extra step, Aurora PolyGuard is similar to a wax for the tube. PolyGuard helps protect from UV damage and restores... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 04:15 PM | Comments (4)

September 28, 2006

Pull The Plug

When you haul your RIB for the season don't forget to pull the internal hull bung and drain any water that may have entered the hull during the season. Water can get into the hull through the wire conduit, condensation, and any deck hardware that is not properly sealed. Once the boat is on the trailer be sure to raise the tongue as high as possible to insure all water is drained and leave both the hull bung and transom plug out for the winter. It's also not a bad idea to consistently pull the hull bung during the season to insure there isn't any water in the hull.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 08:50 AM | Comments (4)

September 06, 2006

Inflated or Deflated For the Winter

Inflated of course. With Labor Day over and kids going back to school, most boaters in the northern climates begin thinking of hauling their boats for the winter. We’re asked all the time if the tubes should be deflated for the winter or left full. The best thing for the tubes is to leave them inflated. The general rule of thumb is to leave them 80% full, but if you have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT boats built in the US come standard with relief valves) you can leave them fully inflated. The tubes should be left inflated so as to not put any strain on the attachment patches, not compromise the rubstrake attachment, and to prevent any unintended damage that could result from a crumpled up or folded tube.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 09:51 AM | Comments (0)

August 23, 2006

What To Do with E10 Fuel Over the Winter

Successfully preparing your fuel system and boat for winter storage is really a two-phased approach. Step 1 involves your boating and fueling habits during the boating season, while Step 2 has to do with the final steps just before winterizing the boat and engine. Step 1: Basically, the more you use the boat, the better off everything will be! E10 gasoline (fuel w/ ethanol added) loses its volatility when exposed to air over time; the average shelf life of E10 is only about 60-90 days if not treated with stabilizers. As such, adding a good non-alcohol based fuel stabilizer to your fuel is a very good idea. As we’ve mentioned before, the main problem with ethanol is that it absorbs water, in fact, scientist say that ethanol can absorb 2-3% by volume of water. This leads to the major issue with E10: when it sits for long periods of time “phase separation” occurs. In layman’s terms, this means that waterlogged... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 05:01 PM | Comments (2)

August 11, 2006

Ethanol + Fiberglass Fuel Tanks =

About a month ago, I posted a piece on Ethanol and its damaging effects on fuel systems. In it, I addressed at length the problems associated with aluminum tanks and also touched on ethanol’s relationship with fiberglass tanks. Since that post I’ve received a lot of feedback, mostly about the small bit I wrote on fiberglass tanks. Here’s what I had to say on that subject: Plastic and fiberglass tanks aren’t really any better off either. For molded plastic tanks, ethanol increases permeation of the tank walls. For fiberglass tanks, ethanol can cause leaks, but more importantly, there are reports that ethanol causes heavy black deposits on intake valves of marine engines which causes bent push rods, pistons, and valves. Testing is currently underway to fully determine the effects of ethanol on fiberglass tanks. Since that posting I have learned that the alcohol in ethanol gasoline reacts with and dissolves the resin in the walls of the fiberglass fuel tanks.... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 11:15 AM | Comments (3)

August 09, 2006

Registration Numbers...

Every state requires that RIBs be registered just like every other boat. So, for many RIB owners, that leads to a logical question: “Where the heck do I put my registration numbers and how do I do it”? It’s a very good question. Putting registration numbers on a RIB isn’t difficult; there are just many more options to choose from than for hard sided boaters. For hard sided boats, it’s very simple, you just go down to your local marine store and purchase the standard 3” stickers and apply them to the side of the boat. But, on your RIB, you have three good options: Plastic Placards used for dinghies can be clipped to the lifelines. The placards can be bought at any marine store and then all you need to do is simply stick the standard plastic 3” registration numbers purchased at the same store. Vinyl Letters – most economical and if done right, looks very finished. Life expectancy... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:36 PM | Comments (2)

August 07, 2006

Mooring Your RIB

So you keep your RIB on a mooring – so what’s the best way to secure the mooring pennants so as to not damage the tube? As with tying a RIB to the dock (we’ll cover this in a subsequent posting –stay tuned) you want to avoid anything that can lead to a line chafing the tube. The best way to go about this is to secure the mooring pennant directly to the bow eye. You can do this very easily with a stainless steel clip or stainless steel karabiner that is clipped through the loop at the end of the mooring pennant and then clipped directly to the bow eye. For a more permanent set up, you can have your local mooring service company splice the mooring clip to the end of the pennant. If your mooring has two lines, make the second line 3’- 4’ longer so that you can drape it over the tube and secure it... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 08:47 AM | Comments (2)

July 13, 2006

Ethanol – The Industry’s Big Secret

The new buzz word these days seems to be "ethanol". Everywhere you go these days you see or hear it; on the news, political speaches, stickers on the gas pumps, and now slowly but surely my boating magazines. Until recently we haven’t heard much about it with boats – but it’s probably the single biggest issue about to plague the marine industry. Today, ethanol is used as a fuel additive that boosts octane and serves as an oxygenator which supposedly helps clean up an engine’s exhaust by making it easier for the catalytic converter on cars to do their thing. Ethanol used to be more localized in the mid-west, but today it’s being seen throughout the country and finding its way to our fuel docks. What’s more, not only is ethanol found in more of our fuel, the amounts continue to rise. (Most engines are designed to tolerate up to 10% ethanol) The problem: Fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 10:57 AM | Comments (1)

July 10, 2006

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser

In response to my posting on Tube Cleaning, David Reich posted the following: “I have white tubes. It seems that the Mr. Clean Magic Erasers would work well for cleaning but I am not sure about material compatibility of these… Any experience with these on Hypalon?” First, David, let me apologize for the delay in getting back with an answer on this. Having never used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers on Hypalon tubes before; I’ve been awaiting word from Proctor and Gamble, the parent company who makes Mr. Clean, for some feedback myself. From everything I have determined the Magic Eraser should be relatively safe to use on tubes for difficult stains. They recommend using the Magic Eraser on “soap scum, marks on walls, or even on car wheels”. From what I can determine it is not a silicone based product – the only thing to be careful of is its abrasive characteristics. Here’s what their caution/ direction label reads: “The... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:29 PM | Comments (4)

July 05, 2006

Fuel Gauges - Guestimators At Best

Never trust your fuel gauge. Though RIBs have great fuel economy – they still can’t run on empty. Too often, boaters rely exclusively on what the fuel gauge reads – unfortunately, unlike a car, the gauge on a boat is not accurate and is really only an estimated assumption at best. When you think about it, it makes perfect sense – when does the boat ever sit level in the water for the gauge to get an accurate reading. Definitely not underway – you can just imagine the fuel sloshing from end to end in the tank causing the sender to jump up and down. The best way to insure you never run out of fuel is to understand exactly how much fuel your boat consumes under normal operation. The best way to do that is to establish a base line. A Vessel Assist captain gave me this easy tip: Fill your tank and then take your boat out and... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 10:10 AM | Comments (0)

June 28, 2006

Tube Cleaning

Tube oxidation is something that can happen over time, especially for high pigmented color tubes like red and blue. The best way to prevent oxidation is always hose your boat down after use and in some cases to apply a non-silicone based protectant like 303 Aerospace Cleaner or Aurora PolyGuard. Should your tubes already have oxidation it can be a pain to remove, but it is possible. You have a few options that use different products. No matter what method you choose, you should start by thoroughly cleaning the tubes with fresh water and a good boat soap. Once the tubes are clean, let them dry. As a preventative method and for very mild cases of oxidation, I recommend using the 303 Aerospace Cleaner. This is very simple, just spray on and wipe (elbow grease may be required) with a clean cloth. As always, follow the instructions outlined on the bottle. The best place to purchase 303 is online at... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 10:40 AM | Comments (2)

June 05, 2006

Trailer? What Trailer?

The BOAT TRAILER – it has been my experience that many owners overlook this critical piece of equipment. As I was waiting down at the town launch ramp the other day for my turn to splash a new 15’ RIBCRAFT 4.8 for a junior sailing program this sentiment was strongly reinforced. I watched in amazement - and at times even in horror - as boat after boat came down the ramp precariously placed on old rickety trailers that only made it to the launch ramp by habit. It surely wasn’t the skill of the driver or the strength of the trailer. Though I’ve talked about it before on this blog, I think it’s worth recapping what I do before trailering a boat (I mean every boat). First and foremost, I always make sure that the boat is not going to find its way to the pavement faster than it will to the water. Check the trailer winch to insure that... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 11:19 AM | Comments (0)

May 31, 2006

Fire! No Joking Matter

This is no joking matter. One of the worse things that can happen while on a boat is to have a fire. Although rare, fires on board can happen. However, like anything, being well prepared can help to avert a disaster. You should and must always carry a fire extinguisher. If you have a fire on board: Stop the boat immediately. Radio for help. Turn off all electrical power. Assess danger. If it looks like there could possibly be an explosion, get all passengers in life preservers and have them swim clear of the boat. Otherwise, if there's time, move the boat so fire is downwind so flames spread slowly. If the fire is from anything other than gas, oil or grease, water will extinguish it. However, if it fuel by gas, oil or grease, use your fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers are not all alike. Different size boats require different types, sizes and numbers of extinguishers. Consult your local Coast... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:42 PM | Comments (0)

May 26, 2006

Fuel For Thought

With Memorial Day Weekend coming up and the ceremonial start to the summer boating season, it’s easy to forget one of the most important parts of your “Pre-Flight” check list in the excitement of getting out on the water for the first time of the year - Check the Fuel. You’ll obviously want to make sure you have a full tank for a round trip, but you’ll also want to follow strict procedures to fill up safely. The fact is, you can never be too cautious, but here are some basic guidelines to follow when fueling your boat. Before you fuel: Turn off engines. Shut off all electricity (battery switches to off position) Check bilges for fuel vapors. Extinguish all smoking materials. Close all fittings and openings. Remove all people from the boat. During fueling: Maintain nozzle contact with fill pipe. Fuel nozzle must be attended at all times. Wipe up fuel spills immediately. Avoid overfilling. After fueling and before... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 12:04 PM | Comments (0)

May 16, 2006

On The Road Again (with boat in tow)

I travel a fair amount for work and most of the time I have a boat in tow. Most boaters have at one time or another trailered a boat – some of us may only go the short distance from the backyard to the town ramp but some often drive long distances to their favorite lake, a vacation home, or a regatta. But, regardless of how far you go, you should always inspect the trailer and boat before hitting the road to avoid any mishaps that most of the times are just embarrassing but could also have the potential for causing serious harm. I recommend reviewing the following checklist before towing your boat: - Check tire pressure and lug nuts (this is a biggy - I once lost a tire while underway simply because I didn’t check the lugnuts – what made it worse was that it was a brand new trailer) - Check that all lights work - Check... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:19 PM | Comments (2)

April 27, 2006

Cleaning 101

Even though I've spent countless hours cleaning boats, particularly RIBs, I'm always looking for new ideas, products and cleaning methods that others have discovered. Regardless of your tube materials, Hypalon, polyurethane, or PVC, the following is a good guide for keeping your RIB clean and well maintained. I start by rinsing off the hull, deck and tubes. With "Simple Green" as my soap of choice, I add a small amount to a pail, and fill with fresh water. I then use a sponge to wash down the console, windshield, seats, upholstery, engine cover and anything else that I feel a scrub brush would be a bit too harsh for. After thoroughly rinsing off these sections, I then scrub the non-skid deck using a heavy brush. For the tubes, I start again with a soft soapy sponge and work my way from bow to stern, removing dirt, dust and grime. For the stubborn spots I use a face cloth, or rag,... read more

Posted by ribcraftusa at 12:21 PM | Comments (0)

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