It's that time of year again- hurricane season is in full swing and the tropics are acting up. Most people living near the coast have been through at least one hurricane in their life. Folks in the south know that during hurricane season paying close attention to the Tropical Update on the Weather Channel is just a way of life. In event of a hurricane, whether you "hunker down" to ride out the storm, or evacuate you want to be sure your RIB is secure so that it is one less weighing on your mind while waiting for the storm to pass. Here are some tips I posted last year to help you prepare your boat for the storm.
One of the best things a RIB owner can do each year to keep their boat looking like new is to give the tubes a thorough cleaning. Wondering the best way to do it? Take a look at one my prior blog entries for some tips and recommendations.
With today kicking off Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start to the boating season, Boat U.S. Towing released some statistics that solidify the importance of a thorough spring commissioning. They expect that over 3,400 recreational boaters will need assistance this weekend. Of the total number of calls, the majority are expected to be the result of incomplete spring commissioning and fuel that has gone bad over the winter. Boat U.S. states that they see a lot of people rushing to get their boat in the water, and then encounter problems once they get out there. Here is a basic check list to review courtesy of Boat U.S.
In addition to this list don’t forget to give special care and attention to your tube. First be sure the tube is fully inflated. Next wash the tubes with soap and water. For those really dirty spots use some Aurora Speed Clean. Aurora Poly Guard is also a great product to have on hand, as it protects your tube from UV damage and oxidation.
People always ask us for advice with selecting the "best" propeller for their boat. I wish there was a straight forward easy answer, but selecting the right prop can be more of an art than an exact science. The "best" prop for your boat is really dependent on how you plan to use the boat – do you need high end speed, low end torque for towing, better bight in rough sea conditions? For most of us, having the correct prop will deliver better gas mileage, high end speed, and improved cruising speed (staying on a plane at lower RPM).
So – how do you get the right prop and what's the right prop for you? Take a read of the two postings "Round and Round – Props 101" and "Selecting the Proper Prop - Props 102" from 2006 to learn more about Props. I was going to write a new post, but I think these do the trick. Let me know if you have any questions and stay tuned for more posts on how to select and then test your prop.
When it comes to preparing your RIB for the winter, the most important thing you can do is to take care of the engine and insure that it is properly winterized. The following is a generic recommended list of things that should be done to the engine, however, I always recommend referring to your engine's owners manual. The list below is intended only as a guide and some steps might not apply to your particular engine.
Steering
Inspect steering systems, including tiller steering friction fittings on outboards. Tighten them if they're loose. Lubricate steering cable and steering arm
Freshwater flush
Run the engine use a flushing attachment, or run the outboard in a tank filled with fresh water.
Change Engine Oil
With the engine warm change oil and oil filter. Be sure to dispose of the used oil at an authorized recycling center
Drain and Refill Gearcase
Change the lower unit gearcase lubricant on outboards. Even a little water trapped in the gearcase can cause damage, especially if allowed to freeze. Use lubricant specified in your owner's manual.
Empty Fuel Lines and Carburetors on Engine
While the engine is still running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine. When the engine dies, the fuel delivery components will be empty, preventing gums from forming in the stagnant gasoline and clogging lines and jets or injectors.
Fog the Carburetor Intake(s)
Before the engine runs out of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil is an anticorrosive that will protect the internal surfaces of the carburetor and the cylinders. Typically the engine will run rough just before it runs out of fuel. As that happens, give the carburetor(s) a heavier shot of fogging oil to make sure internal surfaces are fully coated.
Drain Fuel Tank and Supply Lines
Starting your engine in the spring with old gasoline is an invitation to problems. Manage the last few weeks of your boating season to leave your fuel tank(s) close to empty, then drain the fuel that remains. Use it in your snow blower or burn it in your car, but leave gasoline tanks and lines empty. Some boaters prefer to store the tanks full to minimize the potential for condensation. I find a cupful of water in the tank in the spring a lot smaller problem than 50 gallons of bad gasoline, but if you want to leave the tank full, pour in an appropriate amount of gasoline stabilizer to combat the formation of passage-clogging gums.
Drain Cooling Passages
Disconnect the flush attachment or remove the motor from the flush tank. With the motor upright, let all water drain out of the pick-up. Open drain plugs (if any--see your owner's manual) to empty the powerhead and intermediate housing. Crank the motor a couple of times by hand or "bump" it with the starter to empty the water pump. If the motor will be exposed to freezing conditions, it is essential that no water remains inside. Consider having the water pump impeller replaced every two or three years. The rubber legs can get stiff, reducing water circulation, or they may break off, eliminating coolant flow completely.
For the Cylinders
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the holes to coat the interior surfaces of the cylinders. Rotate the flywheel a few turns to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. While the plugs are out is the time to check them and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Lubricate Linkages and the Electric Starter Drive Mechanism
Clean all pivots and visible gears and protect them for the winter with oil or grease, as specified in your owner's manual.
Grease Control Cables
Lubricate control cables and all linkages and pivots.
Protecting the Powerhead and Engine Components
Mist-coat powerhead with an anticorrosion spray. Coat unpainted parts with an anticorrosion spray Spray a moisture displacing lubricant such as a silicone product onto electrical terminals and the fuse panel. Read the label to make sure the spray is safe for use on electrical components.
Degrease, Derust, Touch-Up
Maintain all painted surfaces to keep corrosion at bay.
Clean and Liberally Lubricate Propeller Shaft
Check the props for nicks. Even slight damage can hinder performance. Worse yet, blade damage can cause vibration, damaging other engine parts and the drive system. Some damaged props can be repaired by marine dealers for a fraction of the cost of a new one. The off season is the perfect time to have your prop(s) serviced. If the engine will be stored on the boat, take the prop(s) home to discourage theft.
Store Upright
Store outboards in an upright position.
** Some of the above information was furnished by Don Casey.
RIB Winterizing: Preparing The Boat For the Off Season
Bottom line, a RIB is no different than a hardsided boat when it comes time to preparing it for the winter or off season. Whether you choose to do it yourself or have your marina or storage facility do it for you, winterizing the boat and motor is probably the most important maintenance you can do to your RIB.
For boaters who aren't comfortable doing their own maintenance, all the procedures may be performed by a qualified marine technician at your local boat dealer, just ask them. Taking a little time in the fall to get your boat and motor ready for winter means that you can be one of the first boaters out on the water next spring.
The following are some basic general steps to follow to properly winterize you RIB:
-Clean boat inside and out and cover when stored, even indoors. Allow for air circulation under the cover to prevent mildew.
- Drain water from the bilges and leave the transom drain plug out. It's a good idea to place a reminder note in a conspicuous place to avoid embarrassment at the boat ramp next spring.
- Drain fuel from tank or add fuel stabilizer for the winter
- Insure the tube is fully inflated. (If RIB does not have pressure relief valves inflate to 80% pressure)
- Properly winterize engine by changing the fluids and filters, flushing the lower unit, and fogging the carburetor.
- Open all storage compartments so that air can circulate throughout the boat.
- Hang life jackets up where they can air out.
- Examine trailer tires and grease the wheel bearings, replacing them as necessary. Check bulbs and electrical contacts on the plugs as well as sockets where the bulbs screw in. Spray contacts with a moisture displacing lubricant and wrap electrical tape around the plugs to keep them dry.
- Put the trailer on blocks and remove the tires to prolong rubber life and hinder boat thieves.
- Check the owner's manual for tips that are particular to your own brand of boat, engine and trailer.
Stay tuned for my next posting which will be all about winterizing the engine.
Well, it's mid September and in the Northeast that means it's the busy season for boat yards and boat ramps as people race to haul their boats out prior to the leaves falling and the first snow fall.
New RIB owners ask us all the time if there is anything special they need to do to their boat in preparation for winter storage. In short, winterizing a RIB is no different than winterizing a hardsided boat. The biggest thing is to keep the boat covered and dry. Over the next few days, we'll cover some of the standard items you should cover when preparing your RIB for the winter.
The Tube:
Today we'll go over the tube and what needs to be done to them in order to prepare them for winter. In brief, NOTHING. That's right, really - there's very little that needs to happen to the tube. As I've mentioned in the past, you actually want to do just what you've done all summer long – Keep Them Fully Inflated. Many people think they need to deflate the tube for the winter, but that's probably the worse thing you can do as a deflated tube puts strain on attachment patches and rubstrake that can cause them to peel off over time.
If your RIB does not have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT RIBs built in the United States come standard with Pressure Relief Valves) we recommend that you leave the tube 80% inflated. This will allow for expansion on warm days in the fall and spring.
Other than "topping" off the tubes with air, all you need to do is simply give the tube a good washing with soap and water. It's also good to spray the pressure relief valves with fresh water to remove any salt build up from the summer.
It's that time of year again in the Northeast when the boat ramps and boat yards are swarming with activity in the race to beat the first snow fall. As owners haul their RIBs we're asked all the time what they should do with their tubes for the winter. Put very simply, do nothing . You actually want to do just what you've done all summer – Keep Them Fully Inflated. The common misconception is that you should deflate the tube for the winter, but that's probably one of the worse things you can do as a deflated tube puts strain on attachment patches and rubstrake which can cause them to peel off over time.
For RIBs that do not have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT RIBs built in the United States come standard with Pressure Relief Valves) we recommend that you leave the tube 80% inflated. This will allow for expansion on warm days in the fall and spring.
Other than "topping" off the tubes with air, all you need to do is simply give the tube a good washing with soap and water. It's also good practice to spray the pressure relief valves with fresh water to remove any salt build up that may have occurred over the summer.
We’ve all experienced it and most probably complained about it too – our marine grade “waterproof” electronics at one time have fallen victim to the elements. Unfortunately, on an open boat none of them (GPS, VHF, Stereo), regardless of brand, on an open boat are immune to water damage.
Though intended for the marine environment, none of these are designed to be left out in the open exposed day and night to rain. To insure that your electronics last, it’s important that you take steps to weather proof them when you’re not on your boat. At a minimum if the manufacturer supplies a cover for the unit – USE IT. However, the most effective way to protect your electronics (other than not installing them in the first place) is to cover the console after using the boat with a canvas cover.
A console cover not only protects the instruments and electronics, but it’s a great security device to deter theft; “out of site – out of mind”
For departments using RIBs in colder climates during the winter, this is a common question and concern. The answer nearly every time is NO.
Because the tubes are air filled, they are susceptible to temperature change. Changing temperatures cause the air pressure inside the tube to fluctuate. The tubes become harder as the air expands on hot days and on colder days the air contracts making the tubes softer.
This is extremely evident during the winter for fire departments who store their boats inside the station until needed. Many first time RIB users panic when they move the boat from the 68 degree station to the outside where it’s 35 degrees. Within minutes the air inside the tube contracts and the tubes soften.
To minimize this effect, I recommend putting the boat outside in the cold for a half hour and then pump the tube up as much as you can with the foot pump. Then bring the boat back in. The tubes will become hard once inside, but hopefully the next time you go out, the tube change won’t be as extreme.
Similarly, during the summer, you could be out on the RIB in the afternoon and all seems fine until the next morning when you go out and you notice the tubes are soft. What happened? Much like at the fire station, in the afternoon it could have been 90 degrees and the next morning it was only 70. If you notice the tubes are softer in the morning - be happy, you're lucky. The pressure relief valves worked the day before as the air pressure in the tube expanded dangerously in the heat, the valves worked - releasing some of the air to maintain a safe operating pressure. This protects the tube, but when the air temperature drops as the sun goes down there’s less air in the tube and thus the tube becomes softer. When this happens, be thankful, because the alternative would be much worse. All you need to do is simply add a little more air with the foot pump. This rarely occurs, but it’s not unusual to have this happen once or twice during the summer in New England.
Bottom line, if you suspect your tube is losing air and all the chambers seem to be losing the same amount simultaneously, then you’re very safe in assuming your tubes aren’t leaking. They’re just adjusting to their surroundings.
What prop material is best – Aluminum or Stainless?
Aluminum props: The most common and deliver good overall performance.
Stainless Steel props: Used as an upgrade and deliver better top end performance
The economical choice, aluminum props provide more than adequate strength and are easily repaired. The downside is that it’s fairly easy to bend or nick the blades should you hit something. Comparably, stainless steel props are stronger and generally more durable; that being their greatest advantage.
The strength of a stainless steel prop will help maintain engine performance because they are resilient to the small nicks and bends that can occur with aluminum props. Additionally, because of this strength, stainless steel blades are thinner which results in better efficiency and performance. A thinner leading edge will create less air bubbles on impact, resulting in less cavitation thereby delivering better performance. Stainless steel props generally offer improved performance, better acceleration and higher top end speeds within the same pitch as an aluminum prop.
The major downside to stainless props is that they are much more expensive than their aluminum counterparts. Some view their strength as not only a positive, but a downside as well. Should you hit something (rock or hard object in the water) the stainless prop won’t “give way” like an aluminum prop and the force of impact will be delivered straight to the lower unit. If you operate your boat in waters with rocky coastlines and bottoms it’s often recommended to choose an aluminum prop. In my opinion, I’d much rather replace or repair an aluminum prop than my lower unit.
Now that we have the basic anatomy of the prop covered, let’s look at how we can go about insuring that the optimal prop for your boat is installed.
Getting the right prop on your boat is very much a process of trial an error. The best place to start is to look at what you have on your boat now.
When your boat is at wide open or wide open throttle (WOT) what is the maximum RPM? Does this RPM fall between the manufacturer’s recommended range? If it does then you most likely have the best prop for your boat – if not, there’s work to be done. The goal when selecting the optimal prop is to have your maximum RPM for the engine fall between the range given by the manufacturer. The higher the RPMs you have within the range, the higher speeds you will most likely reach. Having the correct prop will deliver maximum speed and optimal efficiencies. However, if the RPM exceeds or falls short of the range, it will cause unnecessary wear and may damage the engine so it’s very important that your boat is propped correctly.
Once you have figured out what you’re getting for RPM with your current prop, it’s time to determine what size prop you have. Typically the prop size is marked on the side of the propeller, but you may need to remove the prop as manufactures sometimes put the markings on the hub or the closest part to the engine.
While you have the prop off I’d also recommend noting the number of splines there are on the propeller shaft as these can vary from manufacturer and between engine type (2-stroke vs. 4-stroke). You’ll also want to measure the gear case size. This is the outside dimension of the casing where the propeller abuts.
So, now that you know your current RPMs and prop size, what next? If your current RPMs fall within the engine manufacturer’s recommended range, than I would recommend nothing – stay with what you have. But, if it’s below, above, or you’re a “tweaker” then just focus on the pitch as the diameter is generally pre-determined by the engine manufacturer.
Propellers are sized in two inch increments; 17”, 19”, 21”. Generally a 2” pitch change will result in an average change of 300-400 RPM at full throttle. When thinking about pitch – think of it in terms of gears on a car. Selecting a higher pitch propeller will decrease RPM at full throttle, just like when shifting up to a higher gear in your car. Transversely, going to a lower pitch propeller will increase the RPMs.
Higher the Pitch = Lower the RPM
Lower the Pitch = Higher the RPM
I’m sure we can all agree that a Prop is a fairly integral part of the boating experience, but if you’re like me you don’t give them a whole lot of thought – they spin and make the boat move – good enough. All joking aside – there’s actually quite a bit to them and they’re more important than you might think. The prop is a critical element and having the properly (no pun intended) sized prop on your boat is key to performance and engine longevity. Folks have asked some great questions recently regarding how to select the right prop for their RIB, so I thought we’d look into it together.
Before we can even talk about selecting the right prop, I think it would be helpful to explore the anatomy of the prop, something that I like to call “Props 101”. So here are the basics.
Like people, propellers are either left or right handed. Left handed props rotate counter clockwise and right handed props rotate clockwise if looking aft. In addition, a prop has a leading edge and a trailing edge with the leading edge obviously being the part that first cuts through the water when spinning. The trailing edge is where the water flows off the prop.
Propellers are mostly measured in inches, for example 10” x 11” with the first number (10”) referring to the diameter and the second number (11”) referring to the pitch. So, what does that mean? The diameter refers to the distance the prop would make when spinning (distance traveled around the circle). This is measured by multiplying the distance between the end of the blade and the center of the prop or the hub. Pitch is a little more sticky (OK, pun intended this time); it is the theoretical progression that the propeller would make in one revolution. But, and this is where it gets sticky, water isn’t a solid so some slip occurs so the progression is actually slightly less.
Diameter is generally related to pitch. The lower the pitch the larger the diameter and the larger the diameter the lower the pitch. This makes sense because large heavy slow boats usually have lower pitched props with large diameters which provides the needed propulsion to move the boat. RIBs, which are faster and lighter generally need less thrust to get on a plane so as a result require smaller diameter props that have higher pitches.
Now that you have the basics covered, we’ll look at how to make sure you have the “right” prop on your boat in another posting. Stay tuned!
Fred is asked regularly how to clean the tubes on RIBs. The great news is that the tubes require very little maintenance but a little love now and then never hurts. Normally fresh water, boat soap and a sponge work great but at the end of the season, the colored (non-military dark grey) tubes may require something more.
Aurora SpeedClean, http://www.auroramarine.com, works great. Simply hose off the loose dirt, put a generous dollop to a damp rag, and rub on in a circular motion, wait a few minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean damp rag. Immediately, the tube brightens back to its original color and luster. Using a rag is helpful as it is slightly more aggressive than a sponge but won't scratch the tubes like a scrub brush could.
For those that want to go the extra step, Aurora PolyGuard is similar to a wax for the tube. PolyGuard helps protect from UV damage and restores a nice shine. The down side is that it has to be maintained during the season or stripped (using SpeedClean) and re-applied.
RIBCRAFT sells the Aurora Speed Clean ($12.95 plus S&H) and PolyGuard (12.95 plus S&H).
When you haul your RIB for the season don't forget to pull the internal hull bung and drain any water that may have entered the hull during the season. Water can get into the hull through the wire conduit, condensation, and any deck hardware that is not properly sealed. Once the boat is on the trailer be sure to raise the tongue as high as possible to insure all water is drained and leave both the hull bung and transom plug out for the winter. It's also not a bad idea to consistently pull the hull bung during the season to insure there isn't any water in the hull.
Inflated of course. With Labor Day over and kids going back to school, most boaters in the northern climates begin thinking of hauling their boats for the winter. We’re asked all the time if the tubes should be deflated for the winter or left full. The best thing for the tubes is to leave them inflated. The general rule of thumb is to leave them 80% full, but if you have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT boats built in the US come standard with relief valves) you can leave them fully inflated. The tubes should be left inflated so as to not put any strain on the attachment patches, not compromise the rubstrake attachment, and to prevent any unintended damage that could result from a crumpled up or folded tube.
Successfully preparing your fuel system and boat for winter storage is really a two-phased approach. Step 1 involves your boating and fueling habits during the boating season, while Step 2 has to do with the final steps just before winterizing the boat and engine.
Step 1: Basically, the more you use the boat, the better off everything will be! E10 gasoline (fuel w/ ethanol added) loses its volatility when exposed to air over time; the average shelf life of E10 is only about 60-90 days if not treated with stabilizers. As such, adding a good non-alcohol based fuel stabilizer to your fuel is a very good idea.
As we’ve mentioned before, the main problem with ethanol is that it absorbs water, in fact, scientist say that ethanol can absorb 2-3% by volume of water. This leads to the major issue with E10: when it sits for long periods of time “phase separation” occurs. In layman’s terms, this means that waterlogged ethanol begins to separate from the gas settling to the bottom of the tank while the fuel floats on top. This results in two solutions – neither of which is good. The gasoline left has no oxygenate, so it shouldn’t be burned by the engine and needs to be disposed of and pumped out, while the water left behind contains a high concentration of ethanol; a “cocktail” that is extremely corrosive and damaging to the fuel system; tanks, fittings, hoses, and filters. Once this separation occurs, the only thing to do is to dispose of all the fuel, clean the tank, and start with fresh E10 gasoline. Hence our dilemma when it comes to winter storage.
The first step to successfully preparing your fuel system for winter storage is to reduce the amount of water in your tank during the boating season. This can be done by running the appropriate amount of non-alcohol fuel drier and stabilizer through the system a few times each season. Chevron Techron, Starbrite StarTron® , and MDR Water Zorb are among the best products to consider. The other key to a healthy fuel system and tank is to not leave a boat with a lot of fuel for extended periods of time during the season. If you use the boat only periodically, then it’s best to run the boat with less fuel in it and just fill the tank with only what you need for the day before heading out.
Step 2: When it comes to actually preparing the boat for winter storage, the tank should be run completely dry or at the very least as dry as possible. Then treat the small amount that’s left for the winter. What I’d recommend is adding the same high quality fuel stabilizer/ dryer that you’ve been using throughout the season with some high test gas the last time you put fuel in the boat for the year. Then, run the boat completely dry with this final combination. This goes against traditional thinking - but it’s probably better to have a small amount of water from condensation that can be relatively easily dealt with than a tank full of bad gas that is highly corrosive and damaging.
About a month ago, I posted a piece on Ethanol and its damaging effects on fuel systems. In it, I addressed at length the problems associated with aluminum tanks and also touched on ethanol’s relationship with fiberglass tanks. Since that post I’ve received a lot of feedback, mostly about the small bit I wrote on fiberglass tanks. Here’s what I had to say on that subject:
Plastic and fiberglass tanks aren’t really any better off either. For molded plastic tanks, ethanol increases permeation of the tank walls. For fiberglass tanks, ethanol can cause leaks, but more importantly, there are reports that ethanol causes heavy black deposits on intake valves of marine engines which causes bent push rods, pistons, and valves. Testing is currently underway to fully determine the effects of ethanol on fiberglass tanks.
Since that posting I have learned that the alcohol in ethanol gasoline reacts with and dissolves the resin in the walls of the fiberglass fuel tanks. This eventually compromises the structural integrity of the fiberglass tank, causing them to leak. Additionally, the styrene and related chemical byproducts dissolve and work their way into the engine where they can wreak havoc. Unfortunately, it’s believed that all standard fiberglass resins are attached by ethanol.
I have been told that resin manufacturers do have resin formulations that can be used safely with ethanol, however most of the marine industry has little to no experience with these resins. What’s more these resins aren’t widely available. Though these new formulations could prevent problems in the future, it doesn’t address the thousands of boats today with fiberglass tanks.
The good news is that diesel fuel systems are unaffected so far. So, there’s my update for now, I promise that my next posting on Ethanol will involve some positive news!
Every state requires that RIBs be registered just like every other boat. So, for many RIB owners, that leads to a logical question: “Where the heck do I put my registration numbers and how do I do it”?
It’s a very good question. Putting registration numbers on a RIB isn’t difficult; there are just many more options to choose from than for hard sided boaters. For hard sided boats, it’s very simple, you just go down to your local marine store and purchase the standard 3” stickers and apply them to the side of the boat.
But, on your RIB, you have three good options:
Plastic Placards used for dinghies can be clipped to the lifelines. The placards can be bought at any marine store and then all you need to do is simply stick the standard plastic 3” registration numbers purchased at the same store.
Vinyl Letters – most economical and if done right, looks very finished. Life expectancy is the shortest of the three options as the stickers don’t stick perfectly to the tube. They’ll typically last 2 years, but they’re easy enough to replace and re-do. If you go to a local sign shop and have them cut out of vinyl sign material they’ll last even longer!
Custom Hypalon Letters direct from the manufacturer is by far the most finished and permanent option. The only downside is that these can be quite costly to have done and should you plan to sell your boat, the new owner will have to deal with removing the Hypalon patch.
So you keep your RIB on a mooring – so what’s the best way to secure the mooring pennants so as to not damage the tube?
As with tying a RIB to the dock (we’ll cover this in a subsequent posting –stay tuned) you want to avoid anything that can lead to a line chafing the tube. The best way to go about this is to secure the mooring pennant directly to the bow eye.
You can do this very easily with a stainless steel clip or stainless steel karabiner that is clipped through the loop at the end of the mooring pennant and then clipped directly to the bow eye. For a more permanent set up, you can have your local mooring service company splice the mooring clip to the end of the pennant. If your mooring has two lines, make the second line 3’- 4’ longer so that you can drape it over the tube and secure it to the deck cleat. This line is intended only as a safety line and should have no pressure on it. It’s literally draped over the tube and hangs in the water.
This set up works extremely well and makes mooring your boat quick and easy.
You can see the primary mooring line goes directly to the bow eye and the secondary (grayish-blue line) drapes over the tube (note there is no pressure on it)
A mooring clip spliced directly to the pennant.
What Not To Do - Here's an example of the secondary line being too tight - see how all the load is on the line over the tube - You can actually see the line going to the bow eye is slacked.
The new buzz word these days seems to be "ethanol". Everywhere you go these days you see or hear it; on the news, political speaches, stickers on the gas pumps, and now slowly but surely my boating magazines. Until recently we haven’t heard much about it with boats – but it’s probably the single biggest issue about to plague the marine industry.
Today, ethanol is used as a fuel additive that boosts octane and serves as an oxygenator which supposedly helps clean up an engine’s exhaust by making it easier for the catalytic converter on cars to do their thing. Ethanol used to be more localized in the mid-west, but today it’s being seen throughout the country and finding its way to our fuel docks. What’s more, not only is ethanol found in more of our fuel, the amounts continue to rise. (Most engines are designed to tolerate up to 10% ethanol)
The increase use of ethanol will wreak havoc on aluminum and fiberglass fuel tanks. Increased levels of Ethanol can cause significant corrosion of aluminum fuel tanks. The problems with ethanol all stem from its hydroscopic property, which means it absorbs water. Bottom line: More Ethanol in Fuel = More Water in Fuel. Water corrodes the aluminum tanks. As corrosion occurs, particles will begin to clog fuel filters, fuel systems and damage engine components. Over time, corrosion can perforate the aluminum which will cause fuel leaks.
In addition to corrosion caused by water, there’s also increased risk of galvanic corrosion. Gasoline fuel by itself is not conductive, but with ethanol it will conduct electricity. The same galvanic process that occurs to outdrives and other components in the water will occur within the aluminum tank with increased levels of ethanol. The big difference though is that it’s impossible to install sacrificial anodes (zincs) inside the tank like we do on the outside of the boat.
Plastic and fiberglass tanks aren’t really any better off either. For molded plastic tanks, ethanol increases permeation of the tank walls. For fiberglass tanks, ethanol can cause leaks, but more importantly, there are reports that ethanol causes heavy black deposits on intake valves of marine engines which causes bent push rods, pistons, and valves. Testing is currently underway to fully determine the effects of ethanol on fiberglass tanks.
Now more than ever, it’s extremely important to inspect your tanks for leaks and the bilge for fumes. It is strongly recommended that at the end of the boating season you should have your fuel tanks drained and flushed to prevent tank corrosion.
In a future posting I’ll examine what we can do to prevent and minimize the damaging effects of ethanol. From what the data shows, as long as ethanol content remains at or below 10% we should be OK – the concern is what happens if ethanol content continues to rise?
In response to my posting on Tube Cleaning, David Reich posted the following:
“I have white tubes. It seems that the Mr. Clean Magic Erasers would work well for cleaning but I am not sure about material compatibility of these… Any experience with these on Hypalon?”
First, David, let me apologize for the delay in getting back with an answer on this. Having never used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers on Hypalon tubes before; I’ve been awaiting word from Proctor and Gamble, the parent company who makes Mr. Clean, for some feedback myself. From everything I have determined the Magic Eraser should be relatively safe to use on tubes for difficult stains.
They recommend using the Magic Eraser on “soap scum, marks on walls, or even on car wheels”. From what I can determine it is not a silicone based product – the only thing to be careful of is its abrasive characteristics.
Here’s what their caution/ direction label reads:
“The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is a highly effective cleaning tool. Test first on an inconspicuous spot with light pressure to see if surface may scratch or dull. Not recommended for use on surfaces that are polished/glossy, or on brushed, satin, dark, or faux finishes. Do not use with chlorine bleach.”
As they do, I’d recommend trying it on a small area first. If you have a piece of Hypalon material from your repair kit, try it on that first to make sure it doesn’t harm the Hypalon layer. Let me know how you make out.
Never trust your fuel gauge. Though RIBs have great fuel economy – they still can’t run on empty.
Too often, boaters rely exclusively on what the fuel gauge reads – unfortunately, unlike a car, the gauge on a boat is not accurate and is really only an estimated assumption at best. When you think about it, it makes perfect sense – when does the boat ever sit level in the water for the gauge to get an accurate reading. Definitely not underway – you can just imagine the fuel sloshing from end to end in the tank causing the sender to jump up and down.
The best way to insure you never run out of fuel is to understand exactly how much fuel your boat consumes under normal operation. The best way to do that is to establish a base line. A Vessel Assist captain gave me this easy tip:
Fill your tank and then take your boat out and cruise for one hour at your normal running speed, timing it so that you end up at the fuel dock at the end of your one hour test run. Top off your tank again. Then, use the amount of fuel you put back in your tank as your estimated hourly burn rate. Using that and your hour meter, you can easily figure out how much fuel is in your tank at any time.
It’s always good to follow this general rule of thumb. A 1/3 of a tank is for heading out; 1/3 of your tank is for getting back; and a 1/3 is for reserve.
Tube oxidation is something that can happen over time, especially for high pigmented color tubes like red and blue. The best way to prevent oxidation is always hose your boat down after use and in some cases to apply a non-silicone based protectant like 303 Aerospace Cleaner or Aurora PolyGuard.
Should your tubes already have oxidation it can be a pain to remove, but it is possible. You have a few options that use different products. No matter what method you choose, you should start by thoroughly cleaning the tubes with fresh water and a good boat soap. Once the tubes are clean, let them dry.
As a preventative method and for very mild cases of oxidation, I recommend using the 303 Aerospace Cleaner. This is very simple, just spray on and wipe (elbow grease may be required) with a clean cloth. As always, follow the instructions outlined on the bottle. The best place to purchase 303 is online at www.303products.com. The best part with this is that it’s a cleaner and a protectant all in one.
For heavier cases of oxidation, Aurora Marine makes a product called Speed Clean that works well. This is a good product that won’t cause any damage to the tube or glue – just follow the directions. Speed Clean is an easy product to use, but I would caution that you’ll have to do the entire boat once you start as the difference is noticeable. You can purchase Speed Clean online at www.auroramarine.com or at many marine stores.
As a last resort and for really bad cases of oxidation you can also use MEK, Methyl Ethol Ketone. We use this when building boats in the factory to clean glue from the tube and for really bad cases of oxidation. This is a solvent and should be used carefully and sparingly. Though it won’t damage the tube, you do have to be careful that you don’t use too much and not often. Should you decide to use MEK, please read the warning labels, follow all precautions, and should be used in well ventilated areas. With a dampened cloth, wipe rag on tube in a circular motion. Be sure to evenly wipe the entire tube. You will most likely have to replace rag with a clean one after a while. This is definitely something that once you start you will have to do the entire tube as the change will be drastic. The tubes will look brand new.
Though not necessary, it’s a good idea to follow each cleaning method with a protectant. Aurora PolyGuard is a good product as I mentioned. This will bring a rich deep color to the tube and have a very finished “show quality” look. The only downside to this is that it will require constant attention as it can become chalky over time. It is recommended that you apply the PolyGuard every couple months –just as if you were waxing your car. (You will have to remove the PolyGuard with the Speed Clean if you ever need to repair the tube)
The Aerspace 303 is my preferred simply because it doesn’t require constant maintenance to prevent chalking. You can go for a high luster finish or apply sparingly for a cleaner more subtle look.
The BOAT TRAILER – it has been my experience that many owners overlook this critical piece of equipment. As I was waiting down at the town launch ramp the other day for my turn to splash a new 15’ RIBCRAFT 4.8 for a junior sailing program this sentiment was strongly reinforced. I watched in amazement - and at times even in horror - as boat after boat came down the ramp precariously placed on old rickety trailers that only made it to the launch ramp by habit. It surely wasn’t the skill of the driver or the strength of the trailer.
First and foremost, I always make sure that the boat is not going to find its way to the pavement faster than it will to the water. Check the trailer winch to insure that it is in the locked position and attach the safety chain to the boats bow eye. Always use transom tie down straps securing the boat to the trailer and always, and I mean always, put a locking pin in the ball coupler. As stupid as this sounds, make sure that all lug nuts are tight - I got caught with my pants down earlier this year when a tire fell off the trailer I was towing. Luckily there was no damage to the boat, but it was still a huge hassle and very embarrassing. For new trailers it is a must that you retighten the lug nuts after every 100 miles for the first 1000 miles. While you’re at it, check the trailer lights, tire pressure, and grease the wheel bearings.
Well I’ve revealed my embarrassing trailer moment – any one brave enough to share theirs?
This is no joking matter. One of the worse things that can happen while on a boat is to have a fire. Although rare, fires on board can happen. However, like anything, being well prepared can help to avert a disaster. You should and must always carry a fire extinguisher.
If you have a fire on board:
Stop the boat immediately.
Radio for help.
Turn off all electrical power.
Assess danger.
If it looks like there could possibly be an explosion, get all passengers in life preservers and have them swim clear of the boat. Otherwise, if there's time, move the boat so fire is downwind so flames spread slowly. If the fire is from anything other than gas, oil or grease, water will extinguish it. However, if it fuel by gas, oil or grease, use your fire extinguisher.
Fire extinguishers are not all alike. Different size boats require different types, sizes and numbers of extinguishers. Consult your local Coast Guard to ensure you have the right kind.
With Memorial Day Weekend coming up and the ceremonial start to the summer boating season, it’s easy to forget one of the most important parts of your “Pre-Flight” check list in the excitement of getting out on the water for the first time of the year - Check the Fuel.
You’ll obviously want to make sure you have a full tank for a round trip, but you’ll also want to follow strict procedures to fill up safely. The fact is, you can never be too cautious, but here are some basic guidelines to follow when fueling your boat.
Before you fuel:
Turn off engines.
Shut off all electricity (battery switches to off position)
Check bilges for fuel vapors.
Extinguish all smoking materials.
Close all fittings and openings.
Remove all people from the boat.
During fueling:
Maintain nozzle contact with fill pipe.
Fuel nozzle must be attended at all times.
Wipe up fuel spills immediately.
Avoid overfilling.
After fueling and before starting engine:
Tighten cap securely and wipe up spillage.
Open all hatches, doors & compartments.
Inspect bilges for leakage or fuel odors.
Ventilate until odors are removed.
I travel a fair amount for work and most of the time I have a boat in tow. Most boaters have at one time or another trailered a boat – some of us may only go the short distance from the backyard to the town ramp but some often drive long distances to their favorite lake, a vacation home, or a regatta. But, regardless of how far you go, you should always inspect the trailer and boat before hitting the road to avoid any mishaps that most of the times are just embarrassing but could also have the potential for causing serious harm.
I recommend reviewing the following checklist before towing your boat:
- Check tire pressure and lug nuts (this is a biggy - I once lost a tire while underway simply because I didn’t check
the lugnuts – what made it worse was that it was a brand new trailer)
- Check that all lights work
- Check that brakes work and you know how to work them
- Double check the hookup from trailer to tow vehicle: safety chains are secure, break away cable is in tack,
electrical plug is tight, the coupler is locked and pinned, and that the vehicle is equipped with the correct size
trailer ball.
- Raise the tongue jack once the trailer is connected to the vehicle
- Make sure the boat is secure to the trailer using the winch assembly cable and that the appropriate tie down
straps at the transom are secured to the boat and trailer (not over the tube)
- Grease bearing according to the owners manual provided with the trailer
- Check that the trailer frame is level with the truck to prevent any sway or excess pressure on any of the axles.
- Insure that the bunks/rollers are in place, have not moved, and are properly supporting the hull
- Make sure the trailer plate is secure and you have a copy of the registration in the car.
Let me know if I missed anything or if you have any other checks you perform before trailering your boat.
Even though I've spent countless hours cleaning boats, particularly RIBs, I'm always looking for new ideas, products and cleaning methods that others have discovered. Regardless of your tube materials, Hypalon, polyurethane, or PVC, the following is a good guide for keeping your RIB clean and well maintained.
I start by rinsing off the hull, deck and tubes. With "Simple Green" as my soap of choice, I add a small amount to a pail, and fill with fresh water. I then use a sponge to wash down the console, windshield, seats, upholstery, engine cover and anything else that I feel a scrub brush would be a bit too harsh for. After thoroughly rinsing off these sections, I then scrub the non-skid deck using a heavy brush.
For the tubes, I start again with a soft soapy sponge and work my way from bow to stern, removing dirt, dust and grime. For the stubborn spots I use a face cloth, or rag, which tends to be a bit more aggressive. After rinsing off the tubes and entire boat once again, I let sit to dry. Sometimes wiping the tubes down with a dry towel or chamy cloth will eliminate water spots, especially with a darker tube color.
Once dry, I usually apply a product called "303" to the tubes, using a soft rag. This shines them up and provides some UV Protection. (Always avoid cleaning products with Silicone in them as silicone penetrates the fabric and will make future repairs all but impossible) After that, she's clean and ready to go.
What other cleaning products have you used on your RIB that you’d recommend?? Any cleaning tips or suggestions?
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