When it comes to preparing your RIB for the winter, the most important thing you can do is to take care of the engine and insure that it is properly winterized. The following is a generic recommended list of things that should be done to the engine, however, I always recommend referring to your engine's owners manual. The list below is intended only as a guide and some steps might not apply to your particular engine.

Steering
Inspect steering systems, including tiller steering friction fittings on outboards. Tighten them if they're loose. Lubricate steering cable and steering arm

Freshwater flush
Run the engine use a flushing attachment, or run the outboard in a tank filled with fresh water.

Change Engine Oil
With the engine warm change oil and oil filter. Be sure to dispose of the used oil at an authorized recycling center

Drain and Refill Gearcase
Change the lower unit gearcase lubricant on outboards. Even a little water trapped in the gearcase can cause damage, especially if allowed to freeze. Use lubricant specified in your owner's manual.

Empty Fuel Lines and Carburetors on Engine
While the engine is still running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine. When the engine dies, the fuel delivery components will be empty, preventing gums from forming in the stagnant gasoline and clogging lines and jets or injectors.

Fog the Carburetor Intake(s)
Before the engine runs out of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil is an anticorrosive that will protect the internal surfaces of the carburetor and the cylinders. Typically the engine will run rough just before it runs out of fuel. As that happens, give the carburetor(s) a heavier shot of fogging oil to make sure internal surfaces are fully coated.

Drain Fuel Tank and Supply Lines
Starting your engine in the spring with old gasoline is an invitation to problems. Manage the last few weeks of your boating season to leave your fuel tank(s) close to empty, then drain the fuel that remains. Use it in your snow blower or burn it in your car, but leave gasoline tanks and lines empty. Some boaters prefer to store the tanks full to minimize the potential for condensation. I find a cupful of water in the tank in the spring a lot smaller problem than 50 gallons of bad gasoline, but if you want to leave the tank full, pour in an appropriate amount of gasoline stabilizer to combat the formation of passage-clogging gums.

Drain Cooling Passages
Disconnect the flush attachment or remove the motor from the flush tank. With the motor upright, let all water drain out of the pick-up. Open drain plugs (if any--see your owner's manual) to empty the powerhead and intermediate housing. Crank the motor a couple of times by hand or "bump" it with the starter to empty the water pump. If the motor will be exposed to freezing conditions, it is essential that no water remains inside. Consider having the water pump impeller replaced every two or three years. The rubber legs can get stiff, reducing water circulation, or they may break off, eliminating coolant flow completely.

For the Cylinders
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the holes to coat the interior surfaces of the cylinders. Rotate the flywheel a few turns to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. While the plugs are out is the time to check them and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs.

Lubricate Linkages and the Electric Starter Drive Mechanism
Clean all pivots and visible gears and protect them for the winter with oil or grease, as specified in your owner's manual.

Grease Control Cables
Lubricate control cables and all linkages and pivots.

Protecting the Powerhead and Engine Components
Mist-coat powerhead with an anticorrosion spray. Coat unpainted parts with an anticorrosion spray Spray a moisture displacing lubricant such as a silicone product onto electrical terminals and the fuse panel. Read the label to make sure the spray is safe for use on electrical components.

Degrease, Derust, Touch-Up
Maintain all painted surfaces to keep corrosion at bay.

Clean and Liberally Lubricate Propeller Shaft
Check the props for nicks. Even slight damage can hinder performance. Worse yet, blade damage can cause vibration, damaging other engine parts and the drive system. Some damaged props can be repaired by marine dealers for a fraction of the cost of a new one. The off season is the perfect time to have your prop(s) serviced. If the engine will be stored on the boat, take the prop(s) home to discourage theft.

Store Upright
Store outboards in an upright position.

** Some of the above information was furnished by Don Casey.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:49 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Bottom line, a RIB is no different than a hardsided boat when it comes time to preparing it for the winter or off season. Whether you choose to do it yourself or have your marina or storage facility do it for you, winterizing the boat and motor is probably the most important maintenance you can do to your RIB.

For boaters who aren't comfortable doing their own maintenance, all the procedures may be performed by a qualified marine technician at your local boat dealer, just ask them. Taking a little time in the fall to get your boat and motor ready for winter means that you can be one of the first boaters out on the water next spring.

The following are some basic general steps to follow to properly winterize you RIB:

-Clean boat inside and out and cover when stored, even indoors. Allow for air circulation under the cover to prevent mildew.

- Drain water from the bilges and leave the transom drain plug out. It's a good idea to place a reminder note in a conspicuous place to avoid embarrassment at the boat ramp next spring.

- Drain fuel from tank or add fuel stabilizer for the winter

- Insure the tube is fully inflated. (If RIB does not have pressure relief valves inflate to 80% pressure)

- Properly winterize engine by changing the fluids and filters, flushing the lower unit, and fogging the carburetor.

- Open all storage compartments so that air can circulate throughout the boat.

- Hang life jackets up where they can air out.

- Examine trailer tires and grease the wheel bearings, replacing them as necessary. Check bulbs and electrical contacts on the plugs as well as sockets where the bulbs screw in. Spray contacts with a moisture displacing lubricant and wrap electrical tape around the plugs to keep them dry.

- Put the trailer on blocks and remove the tires to prolong rubber life and hinder boat thieves.

- Check the owner's manual for tips that are particular to your own brand of boat, engine and trailer.

Stay tuned for my next posting which will be all about winterizing the engine.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 02:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Well, it's mid September and in the Northeast that means it's the busy season for boat yards and boat ramps as people race to haul their boats out prior to the leaves falling and the first snow fall.

New RIB owners ask us all the time if there is anything special they need to do to their boat in preparation for winter storage. In short, winterizing a RIB is no different than winterizing a hardsided boat. The biggest thing is to keep the boat covered and dry. Over the next few days, we'll cover some of the standard items you should cover when preparing your RIB for the winter.

The Tube:

Today we'll go over the tube and what needs to be done to them in order to prepare them for winter. In brief, NOTHING. That's right, really - there's very little that needs to happen to the tube. As I've mentioned in the past, you actually want to do just what you've done all summer long – Keep Them Fully Inflated. Many people think they need to deflate the tube for the winter, but that's probably the worse thing you can do as a deflated tube puts strain on attachment patches and rubstrake that can cause them to peel off over time.

If your RIB does not have pressure relief valves (all RIBCRAFT RIBs built in the United States come standard with Pressure Relief Valves) we recommend that you leave the tube 80% inflated. This will allow for expansion on warm days in the fall and spring.

Other than "topping" off the tubes with air, all you need to do is simply give the tube a good washing with soap and water. It's also good to spray the pressure relief valves with fresh water to remove any salt build up from the summer.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 03:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)