Tube oxidation is something that can happen over time, especially for high pigmented color tubes like red and blue. The best way to prevent oxidation is always hose your boat down after use and in some cases to apply a non-silicone based protectant like 303 Aerospace Cleaner or Aurora PolyGuard.

Should your tubes already have oxidation it can be a pain to remove, but it is possible. You have a few options that use different products. No matter what method you choose, you should start by thoroughly cleaning the tubes with fresh water and a good boat soap. Once the tubes are clean, let them dry.

As a preventative method and for very mild cases of oxidation, I recommend using the 303 Aerospace Cleaner. This is very simple, just spray on and wipe (elbow grease may be required) with a clean cloth. As always, follow the instructions outlined on the bottle. The best place to purchase 303 is online at www.303products.com. The best part with this is that it’s a cleaner and a protectant all in one.

For heavier cases of oxidation, Aurora Marine makes a product called Speed Clean that works well. This is a good product that won’t cause any damage to the tube or glue – just follow the directions. Speed Clean is an easy product to use, but I would caution that you’ll have to do the entire boat once you start as the difference is noticeable. You can purchase Speed Clean online at www.auroramarine.com or at many marine stores.

As a last resort and for really bad cases of oxidation you can also use MEK, Methyl Ethol Ketone. We use this when building boats in the factory to clean glue from the tube and for really bad cases of oxidation. This is a solvent and should be used carefully and sparingly. Though it won’t damage the tube, you do have to be careful that you don’t use too much and not often. Should you decide to use MEK, please read the warning labels, follow all precautions, and should be used in well ventilated areas. With a dampened cloth, wipe rag on tube in a circular motion. Be sure to evenly wipe the entire tube. You will most likely have to replace rag with a clean one after a while. This is definitely something that once you start you will have to do the entire tube as the change will be drastic. The tubes will look brand new.

Though not necessary, it’s a good idea to follow each cleaning method with a protectant. Aurora PolyGuard is a good product as I mentioned. This will bring a rich deep color to the tube and have a very finished “show quality” look. The only downside to this is that it will require constant attention as it can become chalky over time. It is recommended that you apply the PolyGuard every couple months –just as if you were waxing your car. (You will have to remove the PolyGuard with the Speed Clean if you ever need to repair the tube)

The Aerspace 303 is my preferred simply because it doesn’t require constant maintenance to prevent chalking. You can go for a high luster finish or apply sparingly for a cleaner more subtle look.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 10:40 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

There are three different tube materials used by RIB manufacturers; PVC, Polyurethane, and Hypalon. We’re often asked what are the advantages and disadvantages of the three materials. As a manufacturer of professional grade RIBs, we prefer Hypalon for its overall strength and longevity, however the others do have their benefits. We just think that Hypalon has more – that’s why our standard tubes are made of Hypalon.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)

As a material for building tubes, polyvinylchloride (PVC) has the disadvantage of being hard: it lacks flexibility. To make it supple, an additive is used with the polymer. This additive vaporizes as the material ages, making the PVC brittle which allows it to crack easily. A PVC tube is the cheapest option and lasts approximately five years.

Polyurethane

Tubes made of polyurethane (PU) are difficult to manufacture and even more difficult to repair. PU has the advantage of being very tough, but unfortunately to make PU airtight, it has to be used in layers, combined with neoprene. The biggest disadvantage with PU is that it ages quickly: thermal and mechanical wear-and-tear and exposure to ultraviolet-light are problems. PU tubes are found in applications where strength and durability are needed. Replacing the tubes when they wear out, usually costs one third of the complete RIB.

Hypalon

Tubes made of hypalon are easy to manufacture and even easier to repair with simple puncture repair kits.
Hypalon is not airtight on it’s own so must be combined with neoprene when used to build tubes. Tubes made with hypalon and neoprene layers can easily last 30 years or more. Although early in its life a PU tube will be stronger than a hypalon/neoprene tube, by the age of 5 years they have similar levels of durability and that is why hypalon/neoprene tubes are often found on RIBs that are owned by commercial and high value leisure users. Hypalon tubes are the industry standard among professional users.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 05:43 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

It was the first real nice day of the season here, so I decided to head out on a RIBCRAFT 5.85. You could tell too by the number of SeaTow, Tow Boat/US and Harbormasters out responding to breakdowns - that for many this was the inaugural cruise of the season and the excitement of the moment didn’t magically put fuel in their tanks or fix their engine problems from last year.

It was a rough day with a strong westerly breeze that made for a wet rough ride for anyone not in a RIB. I am still amazed to see the area Harbormasters and towing companies struggle with their hard-sided boats in theses kind of conditions. As I sped comfortably by at 25 knots, it was a sad sight to see the harbormaster in his 25’ hard-sided center console with a T-Top and blue light flashing slowly flogging their way out of the harbor. Not making more than 10 knots, the two officers clinging to the top were soaked as the wind caught the spray and blew it into their faces – definitely obstructing their vision. I couldn’t tell if they were going slow because they couldn’t see where they were going or if it was just too uncomfortable to ride on a plane. Either way, neither of those would be an issue if they were in a RIB.

At another time in the day, I painfully watched as one of the tow companies struggled to come along side a stranded vessel. They were pitching back and forth in the 2 foot chop and the operator was concentrating more on keeping his finders over the side so as to not damage the two boats than focusing on driving. With a RIB, they could easily come along side the boat with a one-track focus of successfully securing the tow on a stable and predictable platform.

I almost felt guilty as I easily sped by the professionals, but all I could wonder is why they didn’t have a RIB. Each day, we see more and more safety professionals catching on to the benefits of a RIB. The departments that use RIBs today, can't imagine doing their job in any other kind of boat. It just amazes me that so many are resistant and slow to change.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 04:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Matt Provenzano, RIBCRAFT’s Director of Operations

When folks ask me why I spend so much time on our boats, I quote Kenneth Graham’s famous line, “There’s nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

My goal since I started at RIBCRAFT was to build the best RIB in the industry, period. And spending large amounts of time on the water on our RIBS as well as our competitors’ boats is the best way I have found to flush out desirable and undesirable characteristics. As everyone at this company will attest, I don’t go “boating” - I go out with the sole purpose to put these boats to the test every time I hit the water. The Sea has a way of finding any kink in the armor and exploiting it. My goal and job is to find that kink first.

I typically spend at least two days a week on the water sea trialing boats. At RIBCRAFT we sea trial every boat that leaves our factory with an engine. I would argue that the sea trial is one of the most critical parts of the building process. It allows for the evaluation of a boat’s performance, machinery, controls and operating systems in addition to the overall comfort and safety of the boat. Prior to any sea trial, our quality control manager runs the boat through the paces on the hard. (RIBCRAFT’s quality control process inspects and evaluates over 300 different aspects of the boat.) Even after all this and primarily out of habit, I go through the boat personally before I splash her.

Here’s a small list of what I typically look for:

•First, I look over the tube to ensure that all tube seams and patch work is tight, the tube is holding air, and each of the chambers is inflated evenly. Running a RIB at low or uneven pressures will in short order ruin a set of sponsons. Optimal tube pressure is between 3.0 and 3.5psi.

•Second, I thoroughly inspect the hull. First I check to insure the hull is clear of scratches or damage. I then climb aboard and open every hatch and to look inside. Additionally, I check to make sure there are no scratches to the gelcoat. After all the fiberglass components are inspected, I look at all hinges and fasteners making sure that each is properly installed.

•Next, I look over the boat’s electrical systems. I test all electrical systems to ensure that they are operational. VHF and UHF radios are tested to ensure clear transmissions. I also check wire and battery terminations in the console to make sure that all wires are secure and protected from chafing hazards. On our larger boats, I look over wiring on the arches and radar towers. Our guys do a great job with installing electrical systems that exceed ABYC and USCG standards and it is rare if I encounter any issues in this area.

•Finally, I inspect all mechanicals. I always start with the steering system. Turn the helm lock to lock. Note any feelings other than pure smoothness. On hydraulic helms check to make sure the oil level is topped up, while rotating the helm visually inspect for leaks at hose terminations and throughout the hose run. I also always pop the cover on the engine and check vital fluids before I make my way to the harbor. At the same time I ensure, throttle and shift cables are tight and locking pins have been installed. Once the boat is fueled, I evaluate all fuel fittings and tank penetrations to ensure there are no fuel weeps. Checking bilge pump operation is critical as is checking for or removing any debris in the bilge that could choke a pump.

When practical, it is best to put the boat through its paces in reasonably windy and bumpy conditions. RIBS truly show their colors when the weather picks up. I have weathered conditions in RIBs that most boats just simply could not handle. Once on the water, I run the boat at varying RPM’s and record engine and performance statistics for each boat. Here is a small list of what I also check while on the water:
• Tachometer reading at wide open throttle
• Constantly watch all engine gauges and alarm indicators
• Check throttle and shift detents and tension to ensure proper adjustment
• Inspect helm and steering linkage at all bolted connections
• Check for fuel leaks and fume build up
• Recheck electrical equipment operation and verify bilge pumps are working
• Check for any water leaks.
• Once back at the dock recheck all engine fluids and bilge levels.

If you ever find yourself in Marblehead and you would like to go for a ride please call and I will personally take you out myself. Just remember your foul weather gear.

Posted by ribcraftusa at 05:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The BOAT TRAILER – it has been my experience that many owners overlook this critical piece of equipment. As I was waiting down at the town launch ramp the other day for my turn to splash a new 15’ RIBCRAFT 4.8 for a junior sailing program this sentiment was strongly reinforced. I watched in amazement - and at times even in horror - as boat after boat came down the ramp precariously placed on old rickety trailers that only made it to the launch ramp by habit. It surely wasn’t the skill of the driver or the strength of the trailer.

Though I’ve talked about it before on this blog, I think it’s worth recapping what I do before trailering a boat (I mean every boat).

First and foremost, I always make sure that the boat is not going to find its way to the pavement faster than it will to the water. Check the trailer winch to insure that it is in the locked position and attach the safety chain to the boats bow eye. Always use transom tie down straps securing the boat to the trailer and always, and I mean always, put a locking pin in the ball coupler. As stupid as this sounds, make sure that all lug nuts are tight - I got caught with my pants down earlier this year when a tire fell off the trailer I was towing. Luckily there was no damage to the boat, but it was still a huge hassle and very embarrassing. For new trailers it is a must that you retighten the lug nuts after every 100 miles for the first 1000 miles. While you’re at it, check the trailer lights, tire pressure, and grease the wheel bearings.

Well I’ve revealed my embarrassing trailer moment – any one brave enough to share theirs?

Posted by ribcraftusa at 11:19 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)